Sp**s Away; enter the warzone, reflecting on a unique fan experiencePosted: March 5, 2013
The vast majority of Arsenal fans, even those who have season tickets, won’t get the opportunity to go to a North London Derby at Sh*te Hart Lane. The closing of the now famous ‘gap’ between the two sides means this particular matchday was an even bigger deal than most visits to one of the most disgusting parts of the world it’s possible to step foot in. Make no mistake, this is more than just a game of football, this is an experience unlike any other away day or even a Cup final (yes I can remember what they’re like).
The beginning of the day felt much like a Cup final actually. With kick off at 4pm we met at 1 o’clock at the 12 Pins pub in Finsbury Park. The sun was shining on the hoards of lubricated Gooners, unified in their terrified excitement. One thing us Arsenal fans are starting to really appreciate is the build up to a big game. Safe in the knowledge we’ll probably not be celebrating afterwards, the build up has now become a celebration out of necessity. The pub was rammed and full of song. We had one round of ‘there were 10 Tottenham points in the gap’ before taking up our position outside in the sunshine.
Familiar faces began converging on the street corner. Some choosing to share their predictions and concerns with the game only hours away. Others already jumping up and down hurling beers in the air. With each police van that drives past comes a rendition of ‘are you Tottenham in disguise?’. Another round of drinks and suddenly hundreds of laughing Gooners are positioning themselves on the floor as ‘sit down if you hate Tottenham’ brings smiles from puzzled residents. It’s a carnival atmosphere based largely around the hatred of that lot only a few miles down the Seven Sisters Road.
With about an hour to kick off the whole area suddenly empties within about 5 minutes. This is our cue to have a quick piss and get on the Victoria line for the short journey to Seven Sisters. This is unlike any other tube journey however. It lasts only a few minutes but it’s absolute hell if you’re an innocent bi-stander. About 200 pissed Arsenal fans in each carriage are going completely mental. The chants reverberate around the walls, the ceiling and doors are being banged so forcefully everyone gets covered in the black grime that falls from behind the panels and adverts. Most are unaware of the fact their face is covered in soot, there are far more important things to worry about.
As you emerge from the train you’re greeted by a wall of policemen. At this point all is still in good spirit but not for too much longer. You’re now behind enemy lines. As soon as you’re outside the station it’s you and them. The closer you get to White Hart Lane the more adrenaline is pumping. We’re in a group of about 500 Arsenal fans surrounded by a thin line of policemen and some terrifying looking alsatians. Further out are the local residents of Tottenham who get a barrage of abuse and a chorus of ‘Tottenham’s a sh*thole, you burnt your own town’ and ‘youuu live in a sh*thole’.
Further down the road come the pubs full of Spurs fans. This is an opportunity for another rendition of ‘sit down if you hate Tottenham’. The sight of hundreds of Arsenal fans sitting on the doorstep of the most hardened Spurs pubs is quite something. The police get tense as abuse is hurled both ways. Horses step in to keep things moving.
As you reach the ground the police have no choice to but to subside to let you queue to enter. This is where it really kicks off. As you get closer to the ground increasing numbers of incensed Spurs fans follow you in the knowledge that the opportunity for conflict will present itself eventually. As we turn the last corner of the walk objects are hurled our way. Coins come raining down and the odd bottle smashes nearby. Some choose to retaliate whilst others duck and get inside as quickly as possible.
Obviously the atmosphere inside is electric. Unfortunately, after such an eventful and dramatic build up, being 2 goals down at half time brings the worst out of many. People pissing in the sinks at half time, someone smashing the toilet to pieces and people tearing their setas apart as they leave the ground at the end. I must also mention the racist nature of the fandom. Clearly there are going to be the usual songs aimed at Spurs fans but this was much much worse than the norm. The three blokes standing behind us chanting ‘Adolf Hitler is our friend’ and calling Adebayor a ‘f***ing ni**er’ was disgusting and left a sour taste. I’m pleased to say it’s not something I’m used to hearing at the Arsenal.
The ‘Wenger-out’ brigade occasionally tried to make their presence felt but they were quashed quickly by the majority who sensibly suggested supporting the team during the biggest game of the season. This wasn’t our day but there’ll be plenty more to come. North London is red and the tide is most certainly not turning. Forever in our shadow.